UK denim agency Endrime will publish 720 pages of production documentation this fall, releasing two technical manuals aimed at designers and product developers who currently learn denim finishing on the job rather than in school.

The first title, "How to Make a Pair of Selvedge Jeans," arrives this month. Written and illustrated by Endrime co-founder Mohsin Sajid, the 120-page guide walks through construction of a 5-pocket selvedge jean on both industrial and domestic sewing machines. The pattern is based on a 1937 fit, enhanced with a continuous one-piece fly dating to 1877. Every seam uses single-needle construction, with no serger or overlock method.

Endrime positions the book as a preservation project. The company said the construction method is the "benchmark in premium denim, now recorded for preservation and denim education."

Why does the construction guide matter to suppliers?

Sajid, a denim lecturer and professor for more than 20 years, called the book his "magnum opus." He framed the release against the industry's closed knowledge culture.

"Nothing like this type of book has ever been created before in this premium way of construction. Most of this knowledge is gatekept," Sajid said.

The second title lands in November. "Born to Fade–Raw to Washed Denim" runs 600 pages and documents 75 unique denim washes with full recipes, photos, processes and videos for each finish. Denim wash and marketing expert Zennure Danışman wrote the volume.

The wash catalog spans:

• Vintage and modern denim finishes
• Coatings and garment dye
• Stone washing
• Laser and ozone treatments
• Industrial washing methods, machinery and key chemicals

What gap does the wash manual address?

Sajid said no university or fashion course covers denim finishing, leaving designers to pick up the discipline informally during production cycles — a training deficit with direct cost implications when wash specifications are misunderstood or re-trialed.

"Denim washing and finishing is a specialist subject, which can be overwhelming for many and a daunting, intimidating task for many young and established designers," he said. "This book will serve as a guide and resource for denim designers and beginners in the denim industry."

Danışman compared the recipes to a cookbook, emphasizing the variables laundry teams must control. "In a way, we are cooking in the laundry; our ingredients are water, chemistry, air, heat, machines, fabric, time, and a lot of human instinct," she said.

Who backs the project?

Endrime describes the wash manual as first of its kind, and it carries support from named players across the finishing chain. Backers include machine and chemical suppliers Tonello, Officina39, Howa, Garmon and CleanKore, along with mills and manufacturers Kaiser Tekstil, Artistic Milliners, Cone Denim, Indigo Textiles, Kaihara Denim, Orta and HMS, plus consultancy The CC. Ereks Blue Matters produced all garments shown in the book.

The supplier roster signals the sector's interest in codifying finishing knowledge at a time when laser and ozone processes are replacing conventional chemical routes. The two volumes together give sourcing teams a written reference for construction standards and wash recipes that previously circulated only through factory relationships.