Lenzing has expanded its Tencel Lyocell HV100 mill network to almost 50 mills in 13 countries, up from 37 mills across nine countries in April 2026 and just 17 mills in five countries when the fibre launched a year earlier. Indian manufacturers have joined the network for the first time.

The Austrian fibre maker disclosed the expansion alongside Remod, a new denim collection woven at Kaihara's vertically integrated mill in Hiroshima, Japan — a partner relationship that dates back to the 1990s. Lenzing will present the collection at Kingpins Amsterdam on October 14–15, at stand 19 in the yellow zone.

What does the Remod collection contain?

The collection demonstrates how three types of Tencel Lyocell fibre can produce contrasting denim textures, weights and finishes, including constructions containing no cotton at all. It spans heavyweight men's jackets, mid-weight wide-leg and stretch jeans, and casual shirting, combining conventional denim manufacturing techniques with varied fibre blends.

Central to the development is Tencel Lyocell HV100, first introduced at Kingpins Amsterdam in October 2025 as a cotton-like alternative to standard lyocell. The fibre uses Lenzing's Variocut technology to introduce controlled variations in fibre length, creating subtle irregularities and a more opaque, matte appearance associated with cotton denim.

A second fibre, Tencel Lyocell dtex 2.2, has a coarser structure and a 51mm fibre length. It produces a drier, stiffer handle and natural slub effects resembling linen, adding body and structure without significantly increasing weight. Standard Tencel Lyocell contributes softness, drape and colour depth. By varying the proportions of the three fibres, with or without cotton, Kaihara has developed fabrics that show how different characteristics can sit within the same fibre family.

"Texture is one of the most defining elements of premium denim, shaping both its character and visual appeal," said Akihiro Maehara, director of Kaihara's market planning division. "For this collection, we harnessed the unique attributes of each Tencel Lyocell fibre type to add value to the denim in distinct ways, creating fabrics that balance authentic denim aesthetics with softness, drape and comfort."

Why is the mill network expanding so quickly?

The critical commercial factor is drop-in compatibility. According to Lenzing, mills can process HV100 using their established machinery, chemicals and production methods, avoiding additional capital investment. That lowers the barrier for manufacturers to introduce new fibre blends and fabric constructions without retooling production lines.

For brands, the wider network translates into more sourcing options: denim programmes are planned months in advance, so a broad base of qualified suppliers matters for both availability and lead-time planning.

"Planning a denim programme means committing months ahead, so a material that behaves predictably – in supply, in processing, in how it wears – is worth a great deal," said Tuncay Kılıçkan, head of global business development for denim at Lenzing. "A year on, close to 50 mills have already brought the fibre into their products, which means a brand can explore a broader material palette for future collections and know where to source it."

The third group of manufacturing partners announced this week includes the first Indian mills, extending HV100's reach beyond the initial European and Asian base. Lenzing claims the fibre's processing predictability has driven adoption; the network figures — 17 to 37 to nearly 50 mills in roughly a year — are the company's own.

Alongside Remod, Lenzing will show other developments from its textile fibre portfolio at Kingpins Amsterdam, with the Hiroshima-woven collection serving as the reference point for brands evaluating cotton-reduced or cotton-free denim constructions for future seasons.