Creative Director Turnover Hits 20-Plus Brands Across Four Fashion Capitals

At least 20 fashion houses changed creative directors between January and November 2026, leaving Calvin Klein, McQueen, Saint Laurent, Diesel, Etro, Alaïa and Nina Ricci without a named successor. The wave of exits and appointments stretches from New York to Paris and touches the portfolios of Kering, Prada Group, Capri Holdings successor ownership, Puig and OTB. For sourcing and licensing teams, each vacancy signals potential collection-calendar disruption, atelier restructuring and renegotiated design-office timelines.

Which houses lost their designers?

Calvin Klein announced Veronica Leoni's exit on October 15, 2026, after her fourth show for the brand. She had joined in May 2024 and relaunched Calvin Klein Collection with a runway show in February 2025. Her successor is unnamed; reports suggest Brandon Maxwell interviewed for the role in 2024.

Kering confirmed two departures on nearly consecutive dates. On October 9, 2026, the group announced Anthony Vaccarello's exit from Saint Laurent after 10 years, with Chloé creative director Chemena Kamali widely reported as the leading candidate. On October 15, 2026, Kering parted ways with Seán McGirr at McQueen after three years of weak reviews and weak sales; the next designer is expected to debut in London.

Balenciaga announced on November 5, 2026 that Pierpaolo Piccioli would leave after less than 18 months. Martine Rose, who previously designed Balenciaga menswear under Demna, takes over.

How did the Prada–Versace deal reshape Milan?

Dario Vitale joined Versace in 2025 after Capri Holdings moved Donatella Versace aside. Capri then sold Versace to Prada Group in December 2025, a deal reportedly in the works since shortly after Vitale's hire. Prada dismissed Vitale immediately upon closing, according to reports, and in February 2026 named former Alaïa designer Pieter Mulier as his replacement. Mulier started July 1, 2026 and debuts with Versace Couture in January 2027.

Vitale landed quickly. In September 2026 he was appointed creative director of Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani Accessories, the first person outside the Armani family to hold these roles following Giorgio Armani's death in 2025. He works alongside Silvana Armani, head of womenswear design, and Leo Dell'Orco, head of menswear design. Industry speculation holds that success at Emporio could lead to full creative control of the entire Armani brand.

Mulier's old post at Alaïa also opened. His ready-to-wear design director, Boaz Eli, leads that house on an interim basis, with no permanent replacement announced after Mulier's January 2026 exit following five years.

What changed in Milan's other houses?

Glenn Martens showed his final Diesel collection on September 22, 2026, leaving to focus solely on Maison Margiela, which he took over from John Galliano in January 2025. Both brands sit within OTB Group. Diesel has not named a successor.

Moschino replaced Adrian Appiolaza — hired in 2024, out after two and a half years — with Sunnei co-founders Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, named June 21, 2026. Their first collection showed in Milan on September 25, 2026 to generally positive reviews.

Etro announced Marco De Vincenzo's departure by mutual agreement on March 12, 2026, after nearly four years. The studio delivered a strong Spring 2027 collection without a named replacement, prompting comparisons to Gucci's internal promotion of Alessandro Michele.

At Bally, Mario Grauso took the dual roles of creative director and CEO in February 2026 after Simone Bellotti's 2025 exit.

What happened in New York and London?

The Derek Lam brands traded designers across a complex ownership chain. Public Clothing Co. sold Derek Lam 10 Crosby to NYC Alliance in 2025, relaunched the main line under Robert Rodriguez in February 2026, and in September 2026, Alliance NYC rehired Derek Lam himself to design 10 Crosby. His first collection targets Fall 2027, with a possible runway show in February 2027.

Mulberry shut its ready-to-wear business after Johnny Coca's final show in February 2020 to focus on leather goods. In March 2026 the brand named Christopher Kane overall creative director and relaunched ready-to-wear. His first show in September 2026 ranked among London Fashion Week's highlights.

What changed in Paris?

Julien Dossena left Rabanne in June 2026 after 13 years. Olivier Rousteing was appointed the following month; his first collection arrives November 2026, with a runway debut in March 2027. Courrèges replaced Nicolas Di Felice with Drew Henry, former Burberry senior design director, who showed Spring 2027 on September 30, 2026. Carven named Kai Nesselrath from Saint Laurent in June 2026; he showed on September 1, 2026.

Harris Reed stepped down from Nina Ricci in March 2026 after four years. Puig has named no successor and skipped the Spring 2027 collection, feeding speculation that ready-to-wear may be cut entirely.

Véronique Nichanian showed her final Hermès menswear collection on January 24, 2026 after 37 years. Grace Wales Bonner, named in October, debuts Fall 2027 in January 2027. Zadig & Voltaire named Dan Sablon creative director in February 2026; his first collection showed in March.

The reshuffle extends into 2027 debuts from Rachel Scott at Proenza Schouler, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi, Meryll Rogge at Marni and Antonin Tron at Balmain. With multiple houses still vacant and January couture debuts pending, further announcements are expected before the Fall 2027 season confirms which appointments stabilize and which churn again.