Yeşim Group has cut defects in Lycra jersey production by nearly 70% after installing AI-powered, real-time inspection technology on its circular knitting machines — a result that earned the Turkish manufacturer the Innovation award in the 2025 Just Style Excellence Awards.

The system, developed with Portugal-based Smartex.AI, replaces batch inspection with inline detection. It captures high-resolution images of fabric as the machine knits it, flagging defects including horizontal and vertical lines, spotty holes and oil marks at the earliest stage rather than after entire rolls come off the machine.

For sourcing teams, the mechanics matter as much as the headline number. The gains compound downstream: fewer defects entering dyeing, finishing, cutting and garment production means less rework, shorter lead times and lower material waste across the value chain.

Why inline detection changes the cost equation

Traditional circular knitting quality control is inherently reactive. Fabric is produced inside the machine, removed in batches and inspected only after significant lengths have been knitted. Defects surface late, after yarn, dye and energy have already been consumed on goods that may be unusable or need extensive repair.

Yeşim also identified a human factor: operators working long shifts miss subtle defects or grade fabric inconsistently. The Smartex system removes that variability through non-contact optical sensors and machine learning algorithms that can be retrained on new defect data and fabric types as production evolves.

The measurable outcomes so far include:

• A reduction of nearly 70% in defects on Lycra jersey machines equipped with Smartex.
• Root-cause fixes such as identifying oil marks and resolving them by changing the oil, eliminating recurring scrap.
• Adjustments to machine settings and maintenance schedules driven by defect-frequency and location data.
• Shortened lead times and improved capacity, which Yeşim links directly to the shift from reactive correction to proactive prevention.

What does the 'Golden Stop' mechanism do?

The defining feature of the implementation is the co-developed "Golden Stop" mechanism. Conventional alert systems notify operators of a defect and leave the response to human discretion. Golden Stop goes further: if the system detects the same critical defect within a defined threshold, it automatically halts the knitting machine.

Restarting production requires a password-protected screen and an authorized supervisor who must investigate and resolve the root cause first. The enforced pause prevents persistent faults from generating yards of scrap while an alert goes unanswered — effectively encoding operational discipline into the equipment itself.

The system also feeds quality data back to Yeşim's R&D and production teams, enabling precise root-cause analysis, optimization of machine settings, identification of underperforming raw materials and proactive maintenance. Yeşim frames this as the difference between defect detection and quality intelligence.

Scale and capacity behind the deployment

Founded in 1956 and headquartered in Bursa, Türkiye's textile capital, Yeşim operates one of the region's largest integrated facilities, running every apparel process from yarn to finished product in-house. Its daily capacity includes:

• 115 tons of knitting
• 125 tons of dyeing
• 100,000 meters of printing
• 400,000 pieces of apparel
• 100,000 pieces of home textile products

The Bursa site spans 326,000 square meters, with 144,000 square meters covered. Yeşim also runs contracted production across Turkish cities and international operations in Egypt and Moldova. Its brand roster includes Nike, Under Armour, Zara, Bershka, Tommy Hilfiger, Lacoste, Calvin Klein, Polo Ralph Lauren, Aldi, Gerster, Schlafgut and Tchibo — a client base for whom defect rates, waste reporting and lead-time reliability are direct commercial variables.

The company's R&D center, certified by Türkiye's Ministry of Industry and Technology, has previously pioneered work in smart, organic, recycled and innovative fabrics.

Executive view: quality as strategy, not control

Selim Şankaya, Co-CEO of Yeşim Group, credited the internal teams and Smartex for the award, calling the AI-powered inspection and Golden Stop mechanism "a proud milestone" for the company.

"At Yeşim, we see quality assurance not merely as a control process, but as a strategic force that moves our business forward," Şankaya said. "In our collaborations with global sportswear and premium brands, we consistently prioritize excellence and sustainability."

He added that the recognition "not only confirms that we are on the right path, but also inspires us to aim even higher."

What comes next

The Yeşim–Smartex collaboration continues, with regular updates to the AI models and the addition of new features based on evolving production requirements. Yeşim says the next phase of continuous improvement will focus on extending data-driven process optimization further across its integrated operations, with the stated aim of additional gains in capacity, lead time and material efficiency.